Budgeting
A buying budget you'll actually stick to isn't the biggest number a lender will hand you — it's the number you can live with comfortably once the deposit, the costs and a safety buffer are all accounted for, and after a rate rise or a quiet patch at work. Most buyers who get stretched didn't overspend at auction on a whim; they started from the wrong number and built up from there. This guide frames how to set a budget that holds: why borrowing capacity and purchase price are different things, how to include every cost rather than just the price, how to stress-test the number so it survives contact with reality, and how to hold the line when the pressure is on. The specifics live in the explainers below — here we give you the framework to hang them on.
Key takeaways
- What you can borrow isn't what you can afford: your maximum purchase price sits below your borrowing capacity once costs and a buffer are counted.
- Budget for the whole purchase: price plus stamp duty, conveyancing, inspections, loan fees, LMI and moving costs — not the price alone.
- Stress-test the repayments: check the number at a rate a few percent above today's, not just the current rate.
- The 30% rule is a flag, not a target: keeping housing costs under 30% of gross income is a useful sanity check, not a law.
- Decide your ceiling before the day: a hard limit set in advance is what survives an auction; a number in your head rarely does.
The first mistake is treating the lender's approval as the budget. Your borrowing capacity is what a lender is willing to lend you; your maximum purchase price is what you can actually afford once you've set aside the deposit, paid the upfront costs and kept a safety buffer for yourself. They're rarely the same number, and borrowing right up to the limit is exactly how buyers end up stretched — with no room for a rate rise, a repair or a change in income. The explainer on borrowing capacity versus purchase price shows how to work back from the loan to a price you can genuinely sustain. The mindset shift is the whole point: start from what's comfortable, not from what's approved.
A budget built on the purchase price alone is always too optimistic, because the price is only part of what you hand over. A realistic budget adds stamp duty, conveyancing, building and pest inspections, loan and registration fees, lender's mortgage insurance if your deposit is under 20% of the price, and the moving costs that land the same month. These extras aren't rounding errors — together they can be a significant share of what you need in cash, and leaving them out is how a budget quietly overruns before you've even moved in. The explainer on budgeting for all the costs lists each item; for the full cost picture, the real cost of buying a home guide pulls it together.
Once you have a figure, pressure-test it before you trust it. Two simple checks do most of the work:
See the stress-test explainer for how to run the numbers, and the 30% rule explainer for where the old guide still helps and where it doesn't.
A budget only works if it survives the moment of temptation. The classic trap is auction day, where the number in your head drifts upward one bid at a time. Watch for these:
The explainer on sticking to your budget at auction covers holding your nerve on the day, and what to do if you can't find anything in budget works through the real options when the numbers won't meet.